All posts by Erin Mueller

Angels, miracles, and soup

I finally have a couple of pictures of the “girls” with their home stay hosts. However, this is still an incomplete report as super-host-mom, Sabine, was not yet home when I took the one of Kym, Jen, Crystal, & Courtney. You will see them with Yul, Loren, & Tia…I will do my best to add a photo of Sabine if I see her again. Also, here are Kjersten & Kelsey are with their adorable hosts, Patrick (Patty) & Beryl. When we asked for the photo, Beryl exclaimed, “Oh Erin, you should’ve let me know so I could’ve had my hair done!” 🙂 These hosts have been fabulous to our girls…we are grateful to GHS and their good care of us.

Wednesday was another day of practicum experiences. This week I went to Little Angels on Owl Place (such cute names). This is a day care center for children of single mothers. Today there were six little angels there (one was already napping and isn’t in the photo), as well as three “big angels” in Kjersten, Kelsey, and Jolene, the amazing woman who takes care of these wee ones each and every day. She does a wonderful job of establishing a routine for the crawlers and toddlers, and I saw a lot of evidence of healthy developmental strategies. It is a brightly colored, stimulating place where nourishing food, good naps, and lots of fun are present. The photos show this well through the healthy faces…the sweet nappers are Lolli with Kelsey and Devotion with Kjersten.

Next I went to Miracle Kidz, which is a new site at which several of the girls have already volunteered, and I think they all will during the remaining time here. The super-host-mom, Sabine, facilitated this opportunity for supplemental practicum experiences. It is a safe house for babies and children who have had a rough start in life. They can live at Miracle Kidz up to a year, at which time they would transition to foster care. I couldn’t take photos of the children, and Elsie, the woman in charge, was at the doctor with some of the kids, so the only photo is of Crystal and Courtney by the sign. In my short time there, I could easily tell that it is a very special place with people doing incredibly important work there…facilitating miracles.

I spent the afternoon helping at a soup kitchen in Cape Flats, specifically Mitchell’s Plain, a low-lying part of Cape Town that was a racially segregated area during apartheid. It was one of the areas people were forced into when they were removed from District Six. This soup kitchen was established in 2009 by the son of Stanford, our kind GHS driver (he was in the photo of the girls in front of the van at the airport back on May 27).

Tragically, this eldest son of Stanford – Quinton, age 45 – was killed in 2010, right in the neighborhood where the soup kitchen operates. The family has kept the kitchen going…just barely. They can only afford to feed the community once per week. Either Stanford’s wife, Lillian, or daughter-in-law (i.e., Quinton’s widow) make 100 liters of soup each Wednesday. Adults get 3 ladles (along with 2 slices of bread) and children get 2 ladles (plus 1 piece of bread). Stanford said he’s sure Quinton smiles down from heaven every Wednesday afternoon.

This was a very touching experience, reminiscent of the mealie meal I have dished out in Swazi preschools. The people are so grateful for the small portion they are given, and then the kids just want to play. 🙂 This was the majority of our time spent – holding kids, dancing, playing street games, taking pictures. They were hungry for our affections, as well as the soup. I believe it was just as nourishing for me as it was for them.

My students were at their practicum sites, but I was accompanied by seven other Good Hope students to the soup kitchen. They are all here learning English (as that is the function of GHS), and were a bit puzzled by why I am here. The composition of our group was as follows: two guys from Switzerland, one guy from Spain, one girl from Angola, one girl from Sweden, one girl from Colombia, one girl from Brazil, and me. The girl from Angola said my accent is like that of a movie star. On the drive home, we shared tongue twisters in our native languages. They REALLY liked my “she sells sea shells by the sea shore” bit…they roared with laughter as they attempted to say it. 🙂 It was a fun afternoon together, serving in this truly global community…I’m so glad I went.

Test & Township Tuesday

Tuesday started with our second test in Global Psychology. You can see the students writing away in the first photo (along with our new classroom at GHS, and Rosie the GHS cat in another photo). This test covered topics such as indigenous psychologies (i.e., understanding people in a cultural and global context), alternative psychologies (e.g., liberation psychology of Latin America), qualitative research methods for a global psychology, and psychotherapy within a cultural/global context (being a clinical psychologist, this was my favorite topic and I rambled on quite awhile).

After a break, we launched into the final segment of our “term” and then worked on a group project for awhile. They are working in pairs to investigate websites of organizations with a global focus (Crystal & Kjersten are reviewing Pathways to Peace and Kym and Jen are looking at One). On our last day of class, they will make brief presentations on what they learned, including a recommendation for how the organization could improve its impact based on things we’ve discussed in class. Also, they will write individual reflection papers on the experience. It’s hard to believe we are just over a week away from our last class (i.e., next Thursday).

Rashied collected us at half past one and took us on our long-awaited township tour. We drove to Langa Township, where around 350,000 people reside, and there is a 42% unemployment rate. This area existed as a work camp before Apartheid; men would go to work there and live in crowded “hostels.” Then it was used to segregate blacks during Apartheid. We first stopped at a community center, where we met our local guide, a woman my age named Mpumie (say “Poomie”). She took us through the center, and we saw a pottery project where the proceeds benefit the community. Children can come here to learn crafts and other trades for possible future employment. Very practical.

We began our walking tour with Mpumie on this cloudy and chilly afternoon…we were quite the spectacle walking down the streets, often drawing looks, waves, and smiles from the children who were walking home from school. We learned that the people of Langa live in one of three “classes” (i.e., low, middle, and upper [referred to as Beverly Hills]) and corresponding types of homes with various levels of government ownership and subsidies. Before we went into the homes, we were educated on the delicacy of sheep heads and got to see a bit of the cleaning and de-braining process (gulp). I was very thankful we weren’t offered a sample.

The low class residents live in the old hostels, which were pretty challenging to behold. Inside these run-down concrete structures, 16 families live in each unit. Two or three families share each bedroom, and there is a communal dining room (see photo of the concrete table) that doubles as a sleeping area for children over age 8. Mpumie talked a lot about how children engage in sexual behaviors at very early ages due to what they see in these living conditions. This contributes to high rates of teen pregnancies and HIV/AIDS, among other things. These hostels were dark, cold, and depressing, though Mpumie reminded us that they have running (cold) water and flush toilets, so they are better than living in the rural villages.

The middle class homes are better, of course, though still very small and simple. Some were in better shape than others. Teachers might live in such accommodations. The upper class homes are nicer, yet understated by our American standards. Mpumie said that doctors, lawyers, and nurses live in these types of homes. They stay in the area because it is where they are from…Langa is their community.

We continued to walk on and got to the shanty part of the township. I was prepared for what we would see, as Reed and I toured a shanty in Soweto, a segregated part of Johannesbug, about six years ago. Shanty towns are where the structures are made out of whatever materials can be gathered…wood, corrugated tin, cardboard, etc. I guess it is a lower class than the low class hostels, as there is not running water or flush toilets in the homes. Again, it was hard to behold these living conditions. However, Mpumie said she chooses to live here over the hostels due to the less crowded living quarters. She moved from the hostels with the birth of her first child, nearly 20 years ago. Wow.

She told us about how rain water runs through the homes, as does the wind of course. People were standing around open fires outside for warmth, and she said that the fires are brought indoors this time of year, and often the structures catch fire and are quickly consumed (& firetrucks can’t access them). Mpumie also spoke of their “friends,” the rats. She proudly noted the row of clean toilet facilities (i.e., like our honey buckets/port-a-potties) and water taps around the shanty town. There was also a community gathering place where you can catch up on all the latest gossip. Some things are universal, aren’t they? 🙂

We had one more stop in Langa: to the “Sangoma,” or local healer. A sort of medicine man, he is the one people turn to in times of sickness, possession of evil spirits, and romance problems. We all entered his dark, strangely smelling cargo container (what most of the small business use for a structure). I saw our guide slip him some cash, at least 100 Rands. We sat and listened to him tell us tales of his ancestors, snake oils, and potions. I felt skeptical as I saw the many empty vodka, gin, and whiskey bottles, but at the same time I believed in his importance to the local people. He clearly is someone they turn to for hope and healing amidst the suffering and despair.

When we got back into the familiar and comfortable setting of Rashied’s van, a few comments and observations were voiced. Jen thought her brother would have loved the animal bones and snake skins hanging from the ceiling. Kelsey offered to share with us her good karma as the Sangoma had just whisked away any lurking evil spirits from her with his buffalo- and cow-tail hand brooms. Courtney honestly exclaimed, “I could have lived my whole life never having done that.” 🙂

The next part of our tour was a drive through the Guguletu Township; a nearby community of around 280,000 colored people. Remember that this term is not used as we do, with a negative connotation, but rather to describe those who are neither black nor white. Many Muslim families reside in this township, which looks to be more of a middle- and low-class blend, though not quite as impoverished as the hostels and shanty towns of Langa. Rashied said it is where the Langa people would go if they could afford a dinner out with friends.

As Rashied delivered us home to our suburban residences, we had much to think about…I learned a lot from Mpumie about choices, priorities, and quality of life. I saw a lot of entrepreneurial and creative spirits surviving in living conditions that would probably do me in. I observed a lot of people living with a lot of disadvantages. I think of them now as I type this on my iPad, in a lighted comfortable (albeit chilly) home, my belly full from a warm dinner of vegetables and meat, almost ready to brush my teeth and go to sleep in my private quarters (under five blankets).

Why do I complain about doing laundry, vacuuming, or getting groceries? Why do I moan about traffic-jams and busy-ness? Why would I ever not want to go to work? Why does not having Internet at my home stay frustrate me? Why does my routine get me down sometimes? Why do I reach for my water bottle with the slightest thirst? Why am I grumpy if I don’t find a good parking spot? Why do I whine about ANYthing? I am blessed far beyond I deserve…far more than most of the people in the world.

May this time in Langa today – just as my time in the countryside of Swaziland last month and again in a couple of weeks – cause me to be ever mindful of what I have been given. Much is asked of me; of us. May we not be idle but be active participants in our global community. May we see a need and meet a need each and every day. May we continue to ask, what can I do at this point in time for this one?

Not "weird" but "different"

While living in South Africa, we have caught ourselves describing something new we’ve observed or experienced and referring to it as “weird”…we quickly catch ourselves and switch out weird for “different.” I thought I’d reflect a bit on this in today’s post, since I don’t have any exciting news to report or sites to describe. Students, please feel free to reply and post other differences you’ve noticed.

First, a few differences related to race…
For instance, isn’t it weird, I mean different, how many Afrikaaner (white) families have black maids? Isn’t it different how the term “colored” is not derogatory here, but rather descriptive of those who are neither white nor black? Isn’t it different to perceive racial tensions in the air, even though we are 18 years removed from the official end of apartheid? These differences cause discomfort at times.

Second, a few differences we like…
There are very few SUVs on the roads (now that is weird!). People here drive itty bitty, manual transmission cars for the most part. Generally speaking, people seem more conscientious about conserving resources, whether it is petrol (R11+ per liter…have fun converting to $ per gallon), water, or electricity (homes are not heated!). We like the multiple languages we hear every day, as well as the diversity of people that surrounds us. We like how inexpensive things are, for the most part anyway. We like how kids wear uniforms to school. We like the dinners our hosts make us each night…yum.

Third, a few differences we don’t like so much…
Pedestrians are not valued very highly here! Those itty bitty cars race down the streets, and I have yet to see one yield to a pedestrian…even in a crosswalk (I kid you not). The sidewalks are often in poor condition with quite a bit of trash alongside (despite the frequently placed green “zibi bins”). The only photo today is of the sidewalk that I walk down every day…there has been a huge hole in it the past three weeks. Today I was glad to see someone barricaded it off with some big rocks and wrote “please fix my hood” next to it. I feel safer already. 🙂 We are not crazy about the minibus taxi drivers that yell, whistle, and honk (or hoot, see below) to see if you want a ride…they get annoying when you’re waiting FOREVER to cross a street.

Fourth, some different terms we’ve learned…
Nappy = diaper
Cot = crib
Pram = stroller
Bonnet = car hood
Hooter = car horn (we did convey what we usually refer to when we talk about hooters)
Robot = traffic/stoplight
Geiser = hot water heater
Esh = kind of like “good grief”
Comfort stop = potty/snack break on a road trip…we like that one
Toilet = restroom/bathroom…easy translation but we don’t like asking for the “toilet”

I’m certain there are many other differences yet to describe, but this is a start. Jen, Kym, Kelsey, Courtney, Crystal, and Kjersten can share more…

Penguins, dassies, baboons, & whales (oh my!)

Our Sunday excursion to Hermanus was nice…we were so thankful for the return of sunny, warm skies. We drove along the coastal route on our way, first stopping for a photo op at Gordon’s Bay (a gruesome shark attack occurred here about three months ago…Kelsey & Kjersten can tell you all about it [from a 2-hour dinner conversation with their hosts]).

Next we went to Betty’s Bay, home of the Stony Point penguin colony. We saw a lot more penguins than we did at Simon’s Town, so it was a great experience (though more penguins = more stink). And, we learned that they are called “jackass” penguins due to the braying sound they make when they mate and mark their territory. However, most other kinds of penguins make the same sound, so they are usually called African penguins. 🙂

We also saw several dassies, which are cute, furry brown animals, kind of like big bunnies without the long ears. They look like the kind of animal you want to pick up and cuddle (though this describes pretty much all the animals these girls see!), but our guide, Marinda, said they often carry rabies and are “eagle food.” 😦 ,

On a side note…we learned a new term today: “bunny hugger” which basically is an animal lover (this describes our group well). Sometime I will have to post interesting terms for objects/phrases we’ve learned. Anyway, also at Stony Point, there was an old shipwreck in the bay…I thought it was pretty cool.

Next we motored on down the road and encountered some baboons. There was a small group of various sizes, including adorable babies and the big “king” baboon. Our guide told us how when the young adult males try to vie for the position of “king,” they sometimes grab baby baboons by the head and rip them apart to show their dominance. Sounds pretty nasty.

Then we drove a bit more to Hermanus, the best land-based whale-watching spot in the world. Well, this day the whales were kinda hard to spot…we saw some from a distance, but no spectacular sightings, I’m sorry to say. However, we may be tempted to tell a “fish tale” (yes, we know whales are not fish) about midwife whales coming alongside a mother in labor and helping push out the baby whale (which was then named “Concordia Pacific” in honor of our students from CU and Warner Pacific). 😉 Even the “whale crier of Hermanus” with his hooter (another term that makes us giggle, this time meaning horn), couldn’t help us much.

We enjoyed lunch and gelato together, the beautiful views, and the warm sun on our faces. We also drove to a mountain-top lookout for another great view. Basically, it was a day of a lot of great scenic views just asking for fun photos to be taken. I have included many here…hope you enjoy.

Back to the books Monday…half way done!

Rugby report

Please feel free to skip this if you don’t care about a rugby report. 🙂 I must admit, I’m kinda getting into this sport. I wonder if one of our satellite channels carries rugby matches (Reed, please investigate and let me know)? Anyway, I am pleased to say that SA beat England Saturday night, 22-17. It was quite exciting, especially when watching with local fans, Sheila & Binci. Yes, once again a few “yum, yum, yum” comments were made about some players (not by me!).

In the TV photos, you’ll see that I thought the final score was going to be 22-12 (they play to around 80ish minutes), but then England scored another “try” after the “hooter” (the name for a horn here) to take them to 17. The guy at the end with the bloodied eye is the SA captain, from the Cape Town Stormers (a local hero), Jean de Villiers. He always seems to look like that after a match (as do others). It is pretty brutal…our super-padded & helmeted NFL players are kind of wimpy next to these rugby guys with no protective gear. And, I’ve heard soccer players referred to as “sissies” by rugby fans!

SA and England play each of the next two Saturdays, both in SA (first in Joburg, then in Port Elizabeth), so I’m glad I’ll get to take in two more matches. Even better, I will get to share the one on the 23rd with my family! Go Springboks! 😉

Home stay switcheroo

A brief report this Saturday from my coffee shop hot spot at the Cavendish Mall…Jen and Kym had a few issues arise at their home stay this week that left them feeling unwelcome. 😦 The GHS staff supported us in switching their home stay Friday. I went along to oversee the transition, and I found their host mom to be a bit chilly, and even kind of pouty (probably hosting students from other countries isn’t the best fit for her, just sayin’).

I am happy to report that they now reside with Courtney and Crystal and the “home stay hostess with the mostest” Sabine (and her husband, Yul, two young daughters, the girls’ grandpa, Erica the maid, and two [?] dogs). I hope and pray this works out for the remaining two weeks…I think it will be far better than where they were. When I SMS’d them last night, they sounded good. My host, Sheila, has offered up her spare room too, so it’s good to know we have options and nice people here to help us. We appreciate your continued prayers…despite all the “girls” having very good coping skills, this is still quite a stretching experience!

The rain continued off and on much of Friday, but today is looking better, though still some showers. I went with Sheila and another friend, Donna, to the shops at Kalk Bay and lunch toward Simon Town…it was a nice outing. Tonight I will be watching the big rugby match between South Africa and England…go Springboks!!! I look forward to seeing the girls tomorrow for our Hermanus whale-watching adventure…

Cape Town rain

Wow, it sure can rain here in Cape Town! I think “downpour” is a more suitable term. Being from Oregon, we are used to rain and don’t mind being out in it, but this is beyond our typical Oregon drizzly showers. Wednesday night was windy and wet…I woke several times to the sounds on the roof and outside the window. Sheila was going to drive me to class, but her car wouldn’t start. So, I put on a rain poncho over my coat, backpack, etc. (it’s a great look…I’m such a fashion-plate), and headed out on foot.

I was late at this point (after being ready extra early), so I didn’t want to wait for Brenda who was looking for a ride for me. It wasn’t too bad initially, but then I turned a corner into the wind, got splashed (like over my head splashed) by two cars, and by the time Brenda found me, I was soaked everywhere the poncho didn’t cover…even through my boots! I guess it was my turn to experience what the students felt last week. I’ve included a picture and short video of the rain (sorry I don’t have more interesting material…the girls offered to take my picture, but I declined).

Thankfully, Kjersten and Kelsey’s “mom,” Beryl, brought them all in their safari-edition Land Rover (no joke…they do their own game drives in this vehicle and have been to Botswana, Namibia, and beyond, “dad” Patty told me when he picked us up). We had our class and tried to stay warm…without inside heat, it is challenging, but I guess that’s why there’s coffee and tea (and Port in the evenings). 🙂

We had good discussions once again. We talked about how we are all the same at some level – that we can see beyond our differences – and yet our very different cultures have a significant impact on our thinking, behaviors, emotions, etc. It is a delicate balance to hold…and to try to understand. We learned about how qualitative research methods tend to work better (than quantitative) when we study global issues. We talked about how psychology has much to offer to help address global problems, but often fails to meet this call.

The students are struggling a little bit with wanting to see the images of Africa we have in our minds…the mud huts and colorful, yet impoverished, communities. Cape Town is a modern city and, although there is poverty here, we are removed from it for the most part. I hope our township visit (which was postponed until better weather) provides a glimpse at this sort of urban community. Or perhaps our drive to Hermanus will give us a look at the rural communities such as these. It’s like we can almost see, touch, and help the dire situations we know exist here, but they remain out of our reach.

Even so, the six young women are making big differences with those they encounter, whether through their practicum placements, home stays, with one another, or by the impression they leave on the train. 🙂 Like I said yesterday, I am very proud of them (& they did well on their first exam too)!

P.S. It rained hard Thursday night, but so far Friday morning is a bit brighter…here’s hoping for blue skies this weekend (or at least not downpours). FYI, our Hermanus tour has been bumped to Sunday to improve our chances of good whale-watching weather. Long live Gumby!

Sarah Fox sweethearts

Wednesday was another volunteering day. I met Jen and Kym at Sarah Fox Children’s Convalescent Hospital in Athlone. The stated objective is “to provide expert nursing and medical care in a homely and loving environment for children and infants who are recovering from acute medical and surgical conditions…these children are unable to return to their own homes for social or medical reasons.” That last part seems to be the key…it feels more like a medical foster home than a hospital. And the conditions seem more chronic than acute. Parents aren’t really around, so Kym and Jen (& other workers and volunteers) are so important in providing the TLC all the little sweethearts there need.

Jen and Kym are stationed in the baby room, and as the pictures show, they are very happy there and are making a big impact. The main conditions treated at the hospital are TB, HIV, and kwashiorkor & marasmus (i.e., diseases subsequent to malnutrition). I saw a baby this morning that looked like fetal alcohol effects might be present too. You’ll have to ask Kym and Jen to tell you about the babies’ personalities and who their favorites are (it happens…Kym is holding Tyana and Jen is holding Phelokazi). In my short two hours there this morning, I grew quite fond of Fatima, who was born July 5, 2011…I think the feeling was mutual.

The babies are delayed in their growth, motor skills, language, etc. As I sat there, I wondered who they are able to form attachments with and how this is affecting their emotional development. I often reflected on our daughter’s orphanage in China and the similarities…not much crying despite a room full of babies, very basic facilities, “staff” as caregivers. They are safe and looked after, but it is far from an ideal or even a “normal” setting that babies deserve. It was sad and happy all at the same time…bittersweet, I guess.

We have talked in class about having the mindset of what can I do at this time for this one. I truly observed that being lived out at Sarah Fox with every peek-a-boo game played, every dropped toy retrieved, every nappy changed, every nose wiped, every smile shared, every hug given. All six of these young women are doing great things – you would be as proud of them as I am if you were here and saw them in action!

District Six Museum & Greenmarket Square

Our group was reunited Tuesday with the recovery of Kelsey & Kjersten. Their hosts have been excellent caretakers of them, so I am very grateful for that. Being sick in another country is absolutely miserable (I swore I was going to die in a Dublin hotel room last summer). We are all very thankful to have them back in action (& not contagious).

We had a good class Tuesday morning, and now I have exams to grade. 🙂 After everyone had finished and we took a short break, we moved on to the next section of our book…no time to waste when you’re doing a three-credit course in four weeks! Courtney had a good volunteering experience at a child protective service type of agency…lots of kids and babies to tend to (runny noses and all). At 1:30, Rashied collected us all and we headed downtown to the District Six Museum…

District Six was an eclectic community in Cape Town where people of diverse races, colors, and religions lived in harmony. However, in 1966 under Apartheid and the Group Areas Act of 1950, it was declared a “White Group Area.” Over the next 15 years, more than 60,000 people were forcibly removed, their homes demolished – literally bull-dozed down – and they were forced into townships, i.e., racially segregated neighborhoods (we will visit one or two Thursday).

Our museum guide, Noor Ebrahim, told his story passionately…he lived in District Six and was forced to leave with his family in 1976 (he’s even featured in my travel book!). He explained the map on the floor and how relocated families have noted where their homes were. He told us how a man saved the street signs that now adorn the museum. He described the cruel nature of apartheid and how kids today have it so much better. I am glad we met him.

After our time in the museum, Rashied took us to Greenmarket Square, which is an outdoor arts and crafts type of shopping area where bargaining is expected. We have the whole spectrum of bargainers in our group, from Kelsey who enjoys the sport of it to Jen who happily pays full price. 🙂 We helped the local economy by getting many cool souvenirs and gifts, and we enjoyed “show and tell” on the drive home. We all agreed it was a great day, and we were thankful for our “Baby Gumby Monday” since it meant that Kelsey and Kjersten were with us on our excursion.

On to practicum placements Wednesday…(& exam grading for me). 🙂

Quiet Tuesday morning report

Without having our excursion Monday afternoon, I’m afraid I don’t have much to report this Tuesday morning. After Monday’s class, we walked over to GHS to take care of a few miscellaneous tasks, including booking an additional excursion to Hermanus, a fishing village 122km southeast of Cape Town. My travel book states that it is “the best land-based whale-watching destination in the world.” Wow! And, we will also get to stop at another penguin colony at Bettie’s Beach. 🙂 It only costs R300 (~$35) for the whole day, so we thought we’d give it a try this Saturday. GHS has a social planner, a guy named Marius, and we have all of the additional outings available to us at reduced prices. It is a pretty nice arrangement!

Today we have our first exam in the Global Psychology class for four of the students (the other two – our CU alums, Courtney & Kelsey! – already took the class from me at Concordia). Monday afternoon, it reached just over 80 degrees, so the students got some rays while studying. We all agree that this weather, though not perfect (a week ago was the downpour day) is pretty nice for fall/winter.

After our exam/class, we will have lunch and go (with Rashied) to the District Six Museum and Greenmarket Square. I hope to file a full report tomorrow, though it won’t be first thing in the morning as it is practicum day. I will be joining Kym and Jen at the Sarah Fox Recovery Hospital. I will do my best to post to the blog in the afternoon…as of this morning, the wifi at GHS was back in action (hopefully it will stay that way)!

Please continue to remember us in your prayers…we are fine but still need to feel the strength, support, and love from back home. Thank you.