Tag Archives: poverty

Two Days — Two Tours

Sunday we had a historically interesting and stunningly beautiful tour of Stellenbosch. Monday we had a historically interesting and stunningly beautiful tour of Langa. Across these two days we experienced two very different tours.

Sunday in Stellenbosch: It was a perfect day weather-wise…sunny, clear, and around 21 degrees. Our friends William and Ibrahim were our guides, and we set out around noon. We drove east out of the city to the Cape Winelands. The Mediterranean-like climate is perfect for growing grapes, and the hillsides are abundant with vineyards. Being that it is the end of autumn/early winter here, the leaves were golden, particularly with the sun shining brilliantly down.

William slowly strolled us through the old center of town where we admired the gleaming white buildings and Dutch architecture. We saw the posh boutiques, vibrant galleries, sidewalk cafes, many churches, an old trading post, and another slave lodge. The streets were lined with oak trees, first planted by the town’s founder in the late 1600s. We rejoined Ibrahim and drove through the lovely University of Stellenbosch campus where around 30,000 students attend. Quite idyllic indeed.

Next we set out toward Paarl, still awaiting our alleged wine tasting. The region is famous for its wines, particularly pinotage. We drove for quite some time, listening to stories of the area, the mountains, and the rich history. Finally we arrived at The Spice Route, where we could choose to sample wine, but also craft beer, chocolate, pizza, and biltong (similar to jerky). We now understood why William brought us all this way – some 27km past Stellenbosch – there was something for everyone!

We sat and watched the sun go down, remarking on how it must be one of the most beautiful views in the world. With Table Mountain about 65km in the distance, we marveled at the beauty around us. We drove back to Cape Town quite content, thanking William and Ibrahim for a truly lovely afternoon.

Monday in Langa: It was a less-than-perfect day weather-wise…windy, rainy, and about 15 degrees. Our new friend and guide, Zuzeka, lead us through the streets of Langa Township, her home. She shared how she was born and raised in Langa, and she still lives there today. She is working toward become a third-grade teacher, and once she finishes her education, she will teach at a primary school in Langa.

Langa was originally created as a settlement for working men. Then during apartheid, it became a Black township (primarily Xhosa) with harsh living conditions. She said it is a “small” township (by township standards) with around 70,000 residents today. Local guides like Zuzeka proudly take tourists through Langa, and you can read more about our specific tour company, Siviwe.

As in 2012 when I did a similar tour with students, we began our experience at the Visitor Center and saw the lovely pottery and other handcrafts made at Langa. A large new theater was built in 2013, and Zuzeka said many performers share their talents with local audiences in it. She added that architecture students built it out of reclaimed materials. Now the rain began, so we put up our hoods and set out through the streets of Langa.

We visited the various types of living structures in Langa, as Zuzeka called them the “low class” hostels and shacks, the “middle class” government apartments and small homes, and the “high class” private homes. (She said she lives in a middle class home, and, although she called the high class homes “Beverly Hills,” they were still modest by our standards.) She explained how payment works, meaning if you pay rent, or only for utilities, et cetera. We went inside a hostel and shack to see how people were living. They were dark and cold, though a lot of human ingenuity was on display. People creatively and resourcefully live in Langa.

There are shops (groceries, barbers, clothing, driving schools) in Langa, mostly housed in shipping containers. There are services (doctors, libraries, schools, police) in Langa. We stepped into a dark shack where traditional African beer is made from sorghum, maize meal, and water. We sat around the fire and heard stories about celebratory rituals (manhood, marriage) when the beer is made by the women. We got to taste the milky beer, somewhat reminiscent of kombucha.

We stepped into a brighter “5-star shack,” the home of Shooter, called that for his “shorter” height (his actual name is Shadrack, and he has been told he resembles Morgan Freeman). He described how he moved up from a cramped hostel-type setting into his shack made ingeniously out of recycled materials. He described how fires can swiftly tear through the shack communities, how wires are strung from shack to shack to share electricity, and Zuzeka told us he moved his daughter out of the community to protect her. He was a man we all quickly admired.

We walked on and saw the sheep heads on tables where they had been prepared. This site was not one I wanted to see again, but it is an important part of the Xhosa culture that I respect.

We found a cheerful preschool full of rambunctious children, stepped in out of the rain, and played with them for awhile. The teachers must be weary after tending to them from 0700 to 1800 Monday through Friday.

We went inside a lovely home where a woman has a catering business. It was warm and smelled of wonderful things. We were fortunate to be able to purchase small bread rounds for 3 rands (or filled with egg and mayo or chicken and mayo for 4,50 rands). We happily ate these warm delights.

We returned to Cape Town with new images in our minds. We heard rich stories from Zuzeka of hardships and struggles, deep connections and traditions, and the triumph of the human spirit. She told us to never give up, despite our circumstances, and that sure means a lot coming from her: a truly lovely young Xhosa woman, working hard to better her life, yet staying tightly and proudly connected to her community.

Two days, two tours.

Another day, more work at the Lord's Kitchen

Erin sent two pictures last night, both of which include her! She’s adding cloves to some peppers to season the kids’ stew for the day. She also noted that she’ll working with the team on a mountain nearby, moving rock. Sounds hot and hard!

Test & Township Tuesday

Tuesday started with our second test in Global Psychology. You can see the students writing away in the first photo (along with our new classroom at GHS, and Rosie the GHS cat in another photo). This test covered topics such as indigenous psychologies (i.e., understanding people in a cultural and global context), alternative psychologies (e.g., liberation psychology of Latin America), qualitative research methods for a global psychology, and psychotherapy within a cultural/global context (being a clinical psychologist, this was my favorite topic and I rambled on quite awhile).

After a break, we launched into the final segment of our “term” and then worked on a group project for awhile. They are working in pairs to investigate websites of organizations with a global focus (Crystal & Kjersten are reviewing Pathways to Peace and Kym and Jen are looking at One). On our last day of class, they will make brief presentations on what they learned, including a recommendation for how the organization could improve its impact based on things we’ve discussed in class. Also, they will write individual reflection papers on the experience. It’s hard to believe we are just over a week away from our last class (i.e., next Thursday).

Rashied collected us at half past one and took us on our long-awaited township tour. We drove to Langa Township, where around 350,000 people reside, and there is a 42% unemployment rate. This area existed as a work camp before Apartheid; men would go to work there and live in crowded “hostels.” Then it was used to segregate blacks during Apartheid. We first stopped at a community center, where we met our local guide, a woman my age named Mpumie (say “Poomie”). She took us through the center, and we saw a pottery project where the proceeds benefit the community. Children can come here to learn crafts and other trades for possible future employment. Very practical.

We began our walking tour with Mpumie on this cloudy and chilly afternoon…we were quite the spectacle walking down the streets, often drawing looks, waves, and smiles from the children who were walking home from school. We learned that the people of Langa live in one of three “classes” (i.e., low, middle, and upper [referred to as Beverly Hills]) and corresponding types of homes with various levels of government ownership and subsidies. Before we went into the homes, we were educated on the delicacy of sheep heads and got to see a bit of the cleaning and de-braining process (gulp). I was very thankful we weren’t offered a sample.

The low class residents live in the old hostels, which were pretty challenging to behold. Inside these run-down concrete structures, 16 families live in each unit. Two or three families share each bedroom, and there is a communal dining room (see photo of the concrete table) that doubles as a sleeping area for children over age 8. Mpumie talked a lot about how children engage in sexual behaviors at very early ages due to what they see in these living conditions. This contributes to high rates of teen pregnancies and HIV/AIDS, among other things. These hostels were dark, cold, and depressing, though Mpumie reminded us that they have running (cold) water and flush toilets, so they are better than living in the rural villages.

The middle class homes are better, of course, though still very small and simple. Some were in better shape than others. Teachers might live in such accommodations. The upper class homes are nicer, yet understated by our American standards. Mpumie said that doctors, lawyers, and nurses live in these types of homes. They stay in the area because it is where they are from…Langa is their community.

We continued to walk on and got to the shanty part of the township. I was prepared for what we would see, as Reed and I toured a shanty in Soweto, a segregated part of Johannesbug, about six years ago. Shanty towns are where the structures are made out of whatever materials can be gathered…wood, corrugated tin, cardboard, etc. I guess it is a lower class than the low class hostels, as there is not running water or flush toilets in the homes. Again, it was hard to behold these living conditions. However, Mpumie said she chooses to live here over the hostels due to the less crowded living quarters. She moved from the hostels with the birth of her first child, nearly 20 years ago. Wow.

She told us about how rain water runs through the homes, as does the wind of course. People were standing around open fires outside for warmth, and she said that the fires are brought indoors this time of year, and often the structures catch fire and are quickly consumed (& firetrucks can’t access them). Mpumie also spoke of their “friends,” the rats. She proudly noted the row of clean toilet facilities (i.e., like our honey buckets/port-a-potties) and water taps around the shanty town. There was also a community gathering place where you can catch up on all the latest gossip. Some things are universal, aren’t they? 🙂

We had one more stop in Langa: to the “Sangoma,” or local healer. A sort of medicine man, he is the one people turn to in times of sickness, possession of evil spirits, and romance problems. We all entered his dark, strangely smelling cargo container (what most of the small business use for a structure). I saw our guide slip him some cash, at least 100 Rands. We sat and listened to him tell us tales of his ancestors, snake oils, and potions. I felt skeptical as I saw the many empty vodka, gin, and whiskey bottles, but at the same time I believed in his importance to the local people. He clearly is someone they turn to for hope and healing amidst the suffering and despair.

When we got back into the familiar and comfortable setting of Rashied’s van, a few comments and observations were voiced. Jen thought her brother would have loved the animal bones and snake skins hanging from the ceiling. Kelsey offered to share with us her good karma as the Sangoma had just whisked away any lurking evil spirits from her with his buffalo- and cow-tail hand brooms. Courtney honestly exclaimed, “I could have lived my whole life never having done that.” 🙂

The next part of our tour was a drive through the Guguletu Township; a nearby community of around 280,000 colored people. Remember that this term is not used as we do, with a negative connotation, but rather to describe those who are neither black nor white. Many Muslim families reside in this township, which looks to be more of a middle- and low-class blend, though not quite as impoverished as the hostels and shanty towns of Langa. Rashied said it is where the Langa people would go if they could afford a dinner out with friends.

As Rashied delivered us home to our suburban residences, we had much to think about…I learned a lot from Mpumie about choices, priorities, and quality of life. I saw a lot of entrepreneurial and creative spirits surviving in living conditions that would probably do me in. I observed a lot of people living with a lot of disadvantages. I think of them now as I type this on my iPad, in a lighted comfortable (albeit chilly) home, my belly full from a warm dinner of vegetables and meat, almost ready to brush my teeth and go to sleep in my private quarters (under five blankets).

Why do I complain about doing laundry, vacuuming, or getting groceries? Why do I moan about traffic-jams and busy-ness? Why would I ever not want to go to work? Why does not having Internet at my home stay frustrate me? Why does my routine get me down sometimes? Why do I reach for my water bottle with the slightest thirst? Why am I grumpy if I don’t find a good parking spot? Why do I whine about ANYthing? I am blessed far beyond I deserve…far more than most of the people in the world.

May this time in Langa today – just as my time in the countryside of Swaziland last month and again in a couple of weeks – cause me to be ever mindful of what I have been given. Much is asked of me; of us. May we not be idle but be active participants in our global community. May we see a need and meet a need each and every day. May we continue to ask, what can I do at this point in time for this one?