All posts by Erin Mueller

Signs & Symbols

Thursday was busy with site visits for me. I went to Peamount Healthcare in the morning to see what Jamie has been doing, and I visited St. John of God in the afternoon to check in with Jamieson. Both places provide services for individuals with intellectual and other disabilities. The students have been doing good work here while being immersed in the Irish culture (it hasn’t just been about pubs and tours!).

Reed stayed home with the kids while I was traveling around Dublin and its outskirts. Jackson now has the Irish cold, so that is a bummer. Hopefully he will be better quickly and it will avoid me completely!

 

photo-41
Tony, our AIFS guide, and our students

In the evening, the students and Tony met up at our apartment, and they headed out (along with Reed) for some “trad,” or traditional Irish music. We presented Tony with some thank-you gifts, including a Concordia fleece jacket that is a bit too big for him (he wasn’t quite what we had pictured back home when we gathered our items!). He laughed about it and said now he looks like an American tourist. ๐Ÿ™‚

 

While out and about in Dublin, I took a few pictures of signs and symbols. The photos are tagged with captions, but I thought I’d go into a bit more detail since I don’t have much else to share today.

 

photo-1
Official Dublin Flag

The flag of Dublin says “รth Cliath,” which is Irish for “fording point” on the River Liffey. The name “Dublin” originally was “Dubhlinn,” which means “black pool.” Where the Dublin Castle Garden is now located used to be a small lake for mooring ships. As the city grew in the early 1700s, the lake was covered over. I like the shades of blue on the flag, alongside the castle and ship (and imagining a lake beneath the city!).

 

The beautiful clock and “รrd-Oifig an Phuist” sign are on the O’Connell Street General Post Office (GPO). This massive building has an interesting history. During the Easter Rising of 1916, the GPO served as the headquarters of the uprising’s leaders (remember the likes of Patrick Pearse, and later Michael Collins?). The building was destroyed by fire in the course of the rebellion, and the facade is all that remains of the original building.

 

photo-21
GPO and The Spire of Dublin

There was a pillar (Nelson’s Pillar) in the center of O’Connell Street adjacent to the GPO. However, it was destroyed by the IRA in 1966. The shiny “Spire of Dublin” now stands in its place…it is nearly 400 feet tall! There also is a marvelous statue of Daniel O’Connell in front of the GPO. He was a political leader in the first half of the 19th century who campaigned for Catholic emancipation. Leaders such as Mahatma Ghandi and Martin Luther King are said to have gained inspiration from O’Connell and his leadership style.

 

On more of a pop culture note, I included signs related to Starbucks, soccer, and a sandwich. I had a few minutes while waiting for my first bus to get a coffee. I happily bypassed the Starbucks for the more local Costa Coffee. It was delicious and satisfying (and it’s good to know that Starbucks hasn’t taken over Dublin!). While waiting for my second bus, I enjoyed reading the upcoming soccer (football) schedule of the Premier League. Wouldn’t it be fun to be able to watch all of those matches? Finally, while waiting for my fourth bus, I enjoyed a sandwich: tuna and sweetcorn on oatmeal bread, handmade in Ireland. Who knew that combination of favors would be so delicious? (Sorry, it was a quick transfer to my third bus and I didn’t get any pictures!)

Just one more day in Dubhlinn, รth Cliath…

 

 

Wednesday Talk & Walk

The highlights of this quiet Wednesday were a talk in the launderette and a walk in the neighborhood around Trinity…both were shared with Reed, which makes everything even better.

In the morning, we visited the Trinity launderette to get everything washed up and ready to last the next week. While waiting on our clothes to dry, we talked with an older gentleman who was there emptying out the Euros from the machines (his son’s business). He had kind eyes and spoke with a thick Irish accent. He asked if I was Reed’s girlfriend or wife, and he couldn’t believe we’ve been married 17 years (said we look too young). He said he’s been married 44 years (pause)…to the same woman. ๐Ÿ™‚

Then he shared that he has been told he’s got 18 months to live…he has pulmonary fibrosis. It runs in his family, and some have died from it at a much younger age. He said he is trying to keep a positive outlook and enjoy what time he’s got left. He keeps himself busy, and he has straightened up his behavior as he gets closer to the end and having to answer questions in heaven. He also spoke of the conflict in the world and how people just need to be kind to one another. Our conversation came to an end when he had to get going to the next launderette to collect the coins. We wished him well and he went out the door. We don’t know his name and will never see him again, but he taught us some big life lessons in the small time we shared.

After lunch at the Buttery, Reed prepped for his last class, and then he had some time before the students arrived. We set out for a pint at yet another pub, and then we walked around Temple Bar a bit. We headed over to Grafton Street for gelato, and then we walked back on Dawson Street. We strolled across campus and marveled at the architecture. We have come to know our neighborhood around Trinity quite well, and we are appreciative of the time we’ve gotten to spend here. I think this will remain a very special place to us, and we will remember the very special man we met here this morning.

An Irish Birthday

Tuesday was my birthday. Over the years, especially as a kid, I’ve celebrated my summer birthday on the road…mostly at the northern lakes in Minnesota or Wisconsin. Well, I guess this year tops those, being that I was in Dublin for the big day. My mom and dad left in the morning, and the skies were a bit misty, so it was kind of a dreary start. Thankfully, by day’s end, the sun appeared, my folks made it home, and we had a nice family time together celebrating.

Backing up a bit…I visited one of our students at her service placement site in the afternoon. Our host partner, the American Institute for Foreign Study, matched the students to volunteer placements based on their interests noted in their applications. Hannah, being a collegiate athlete (national women’s soccer champion and tournament MVP, in fact!), wanted to work with kids in a sports’ setting. So, she has been volunteering at kids’ camps at Surf Dock, a water sports’ school on the Grand Canal in Dublin. She has been having lots of fun in the water with the Irish kids, and I enjoyed seeing her in action. I took the bus to the canal but enjoyed a nice walk back as the sun had made its appearance by then. I got a couple of pictures of some favorite signs, along with a very decent latte, on my way home. I plan to visit the other students at their placement sites on Thursday.

Reed booked us a dinner reservation at Boxty, which is “totally Irish” and where they make interesting items out of potatoes, such as pancakes, dumplings, and cakes. It is located in Temple Bar, so we once again walked to our favorite little area along the Liffey. It was fun to try the different forms of spuds, along with a couple of new (to us) Irish beers. Jackson loved his ribs, and Abbie tried corned beef (not her favorite). The kids got me some gourmet chocolates and a cute “best mum” sign. ๐Ÿ™‚ Reed got me a beautiful Celtic cross necklace…the perfect gift from Dublin. I’m a very lucky girl!

The rest of our evening was spent at our apartment, sampling chocolates and sipping whisky (for those of us 18+). Reed and I watched the 1991 Robin Hood Prince of Thieves classic. Why? Well, some of it was filmed at Alnwick Castle (we visited it last Thursday in northern England). The castle scenes were there, but they didn’t make up for the lame acting, bad accents, and awful mullet Kevin Costner wore. Gotta love the 90s. All in all, it was a very nice Irish birthday…I wonder where I’ll be next year?

Lovely Last Day Together

Monday was my folks’ last day with us in Dublin. As I write this onย Tuesday morning, Reed is headed with them to the airport for theirย flight back home. It was great to have them share time with us here.ย Since we live nearly 2000 miles apart and don’t share day-to-day life,ย packing quality time into trips like this is something we really love.

Mom and Dad came over to our apartment mid-morning, our typicalย routine by now as the kids enjoy sleeping in. Now you may think weย would have coffee or tea together, but not this morning – it wasย whisky time! Don’t worry…it was just a little tasting, which is farย different than actually drinking…and, it was after 11:00, which isย the time whiskey can be served here. (You may have noticed theย different spellings of whiskey…the “e” is in Irish [& American]ย whiskey whereas it’s not in Scottish whisky, i.e., Scotch.) Dad and Iย had to sample the special whisky Reed bottled for us in Scotland atย Cadenhead’s. We admired the color, swirled it, and then mixed in aย little water, as we had learned to do with this strong stuff (112ย proof!). Then we tasted it…and…it wasn’t too bad! I think my Dadย likes it a bit more than me…not so much the taste but the warmthย after it’s down the hatch. (I think I’ll always be more of a tequilaย girl; sorry Scotch lovers.) It was fun.

photo-442
On the River Liffey

After lunch together on campus at “The Buttery” (all 6 of us; yes,ย Jackson is still here, just avoiding the camera), I took my folks backย to Temple Bar and its quaint cobblestone streets. I wanted to get themย to the old Ha Penny bridge (mentioned in my first Dublin post), asย well as the new Millennium Bridge. I really enjoyed strolling alongย the River Liffey with them. As we couldn’t find gelato in Temple Bar,ย we headed back up Grafton Street for one last “tub” as they call itย here. It was delicious, and we are thankful for all of the walking weย do so we can manage our gelato indulgences! (Side note…we haveย sampled both Irish and Scottish ice cream and find it doesn’t compareย to the Italian stuff.)

Later in the afternoon, my parents and I walked up Dame Street towardย St. Patrick’s Cathedral. The plan was for all six of us to take in theย 5:30pm evensong service, but Abbie now has Reed’s cold so he stayedย back with the kids. It is about a mile walk, and we left in time toย visit Christ Church Cathedral along the way (the four of us went thereย before my folks arrived so it was mentioned in a previous post).

St. Patricks’s is larger than Christ Church; in fact, it is theย longest medieval church in Ireland. It is known as “the people’sย cathedral,” and it is the national Protestant Church of Ireland. Itย stands on an early Christian site where St. Patrick baptized convertsย in a well in 450 AD. There is a park adjacent to the cathedral whereย the fountain marks this place. The original church was wood, and theย stone structure was built in 1192 and then expanded to make it aย cathedral between 1220-1270. It’s still hard to wrap our heads aroundย this history sometimes! You can read more about St. Patrick hereย – there’s good reason why he’s such a big deal to the Irish!

The evensong service was beautiful. A choir dressed in purple robes, aย gowned woman with a scepter, and three ministers processed in. Theย organ played throughout and there were several songs, prayers, andย scripture readings. We said the Apostle’s Creed and prayer of graceย together. It was a good reminder to me of how long people have beenย relying on faith to get through life.

After the service, we walked around the nave a bit, looking at theย graves and other ornamentation. Jonathan Swift (Gulliver’s Travels)ย and his wife, Stella, are buried here. The area in the front whereย the choir sits is adorned with swords, banners, and helmets, which isย a bit surprising. They represent the knights of St. Patrick. Weย departed very content with what we had experienced; I hope to attendย again this week with Reed and the kids.

photo-541
Campanile, nearing dusk, Trinity College

We walked back toward Trinity and met Reed at a nice pub he hadย located for our last meal together. We enjoyed the beautiful settingย in the old Ulster Bank, and we had some delicious food. Upon re-entering Trinity, we were greeted by a wonderful view of the campanile (detail on the architecture here or here).ย We then visited forย awhile in our apartment, ย finished off our Irish shortbread, and then myย folks said goodbye to the kids. It was a lovely last day together.

 

 

Goodbye Edinburgh, Hello Dublin

Sunday was our last day in Edinburgh. We booked a “silver tour” (recommended for families) at the Scotch Whisky Experience. It is quite touristy, but since Reed got a wee bit of the real deal by going to Cadenhead’s, I thought we should take it in. The Whisky Experience is located right next to the castle, so we walked up the Royal Mile one more time amongst the crowds and raindrops. In this tour, you are educated about how whisky is made while riding along in a whisky barrel. There is a ghost that takes you through the steps, and you are immersed in the sights, sounds, and even smells (smoky peat!) of the process. It was well done and sort of like a slow ride at Disneyland.

After you depart your barrel, you enter a room with a guide (ours was very cheerful and animated) where you continue your education about the whisky regions in Scotland. You are given a scratch-n-sniff sort of card where you can smell scents in the whisky from each region. One of them smelled fresh like citrus, another kind of like bubble gum, and of course one was very smoky. Then it was time to decide which one you wanted to taste. The four grown-ups chose one of each so we got to try them all; the kids got a glass of Irn Bru, Scotland’s soft drink (an orange soda).

Next we entered another room where we were surrounded by the world’s largest Scotch whisky collection. Here we were told how to tip the glass, swirl it around, sniff, and then sip. I sure didn’t taste any of that citrus or bubble gum, but it was fun and informative. The one I disliked the least was from the Speyside region…I’m not going so far as to say I liked it, but I could appreciate it a wee bit. My dad liked the one from the lowland region; Reed loved them all but especially the Islay. My mom didn’t like any, and the kids downed their Irn Brus like good Scottish children. As part of the tour, you get to keep your sipping glass (Glencairn), which will make us a nice set at home (so come on over for a dram!). ๐Ÿ™‚

We watched a little Commonwealth Games “lawn bowls,” packed up our stuff, and took a bus to the airport (even the bus seats are Tartan plaid!). The airport is surprisingly small, and we navigated the process much easier than when we left Dublin. We enjoyed a nice dinner while waiting for our plane; I had a pint of Caledonia, a Scottish beer, and Reed got ready to return to Ireland with a Guinness. Our flight was just 40 minutes or so, and our bags arrived safe and sound (no broken glasses or bottles!). Another bus dropped us right off at Trinity, and I got my folks checked into their room. They depart Tuesday, so we will share one more day together in Dublin.

A Scottish Saturday

We took it a bit easy today, trying to get Reed on the mend through forcing him to rest. He was able to go across the street to Cadenhead’s Whisky Shop, Scotland’s oldest independent bottler, which was definitely a highlight for him. ๐Ÿ™‚

Mom, Dad, Abbie, and I set out after lunch to explore Greyfriar’s Kirkyard (graveyard) in search of Greyfriar Bobby’s tombstone. We easily found it, but we weren’t as lucky with finding Tom Riddell’s or a good view of the castle. Oh well. I still enjoyed walking on the old town streets of Cowgate, Candlemaker, and Grassmarket.

Next we headed up the hill toward the castle to visit the Tartan Weaving Mill. The looms weren’t running which was kind of a bummer, but still we saw them and were impressed. You are fed through a bunch of shops at the mill so that is kind of lame, but again, oh well. The crowds on the streets are bonkers today…a jazz and blues festival is in town, and the Commonwealth Games are being held in Glasgow, which also brings a lot of people to Edinburgh (they are kind of like the summer Olympics, only just within the British commonwealth).

We strolled back down the Royal Mile, getting ice cream and a few souvenirs on the way. Dinner was next door to our flat at the Tolbooth Tavern, established in 1820 (building dates to 1591). We sampled a couple of whiskies (not my thing, sorry Reed!), and we enjoyed some Scottish cuisine. Mom and I had vegetarian haggis (made of kidney beans, lentils, oats, and seasonings rather than sheep innards), neeps (turnips), and tatties (potatoes). Yum. Reed enjoyed a steak and ale pie. Yum. Then we went back to our flat to watch more of the Commonwealth Games – I’m not sure whether to root for Scotland or South Africa!

Scotland, England, and Scotland

After a bit of airport stress (super security procedure and missed visa checkpoint!), we made it on our 6:35a flight from Dublin, arriving in Edinburgh less than an hour later. Our guide for the day, James Farrell, picked us up on his “wee red bus” in kilt and all. Pretty cool. ๐Ÿ™‚

We booked an all day tour knowing we wouldn’t be able to check into our flat until later in the day. My sister and I (& our families) “gave” this tour to our folks for their 50th wedding anniversary, which will be on August 1. We chose the “Wizards & Warriors” Heart of Scotland tour as it seemed to have a nice combination of nature, castles, and Harry Potter. Much of the tour took place in England, but we heard a lot about Scotland and it’s history along the way.

We drove to Holy Island first, which is accessed by a road (no bridge) during low tide. We were able to stay about 90 minutes before the tide started to rise. There are little wooden platforms for people who get caught by the tide and have to wait out the 8 hour high tide period! Before reaching the causeway, we again traveled along the Atlantic coast. Once on the island, we visited Lindisfarne Castle…Reed and Jackson paid for the inside peek while the rest of us sought out coffee (we hade been up since 3am, about 7 hours by this point!).

We reboarded our wee red bus and went about 40 minutes to Alnwick Castle. This is where much of the exterior of Hogwarts was filmed in the Harry Potter films. It was massive and really impressed us all. We poked around the grounds, in the various buildings, and explored the sites and activities for a couple of hours. It was fun to imagine what life in the castle would be like, both in terms of the English royalty and the fictitious Hogwarts worlds. It was really fun to share this time together.

It was about 90 minutes to Edinburgh from Alnwick, and we made a “comfort stop” at the cute little village of Etal along the way. It was a warm, sunny day, maybe around 75, so we felt extra lucky to enjoy all of the sites in the full sun. James Farrell must have been roasting in his wool kilt, wool sweater, and wool socks! He found our flat, right on the Royal Mile, and our host was there to greet us. Reed and I found a grocery store and we brought home dinner and breakfast provisions.

Friday morning we set out on foot for the castle a little after 11:00. Reed and my dad waited in line quite a long time for our tickets. It seemed as if every tourist in Edinburgh had the same idea we did! We entered the grounds and were impressed, though I think perhaps we had built it up a bit too big (at least I had). The view of it from a distance is maybe more awesome than when you are in the midst of it. Jackson said afterwards that it is his #3 of 5 we have seen so far. Luckily, our timing was good to witness the 1:00 canon fire.

We walked the short distance to The Elephant House cafe for lunch. This is where JK Rowling wrote some of her Harry Potter books. It was fun to sit inside and imagine the characters coming to life there. Then we went down the street just a bit more to find the statue of Greyfriars Bobby, the little dog who guarded his master’s grave in Greyfriars Kirkyard (written by Eleanor Atkinson). I was happy to see it as I’m reading the book now (thanks, Chris!). It was fun to explore a bit of the “Royal Mile” today – the apartment we are staying in is right on it!

Another Castle and a Few More Pubs

Today we had Dublin Castle on our agenda. It is kind of amazing that aย castle lies in city center and you don’t really even see it. It’s notย a towering one like Blarney, but it impresses nonetheless. We did aย fairly quick tour of it as we did not pay to enter the “fancy” part.ย We did, however, get to go in the Royal Chapel, as well as the garden.ย It was a warm, sunny day, so many people were out enjoying the middayย sun along with us. We lunched at The Stag’s Head, an historic pub Iย had read about in my guidebook. It was really cool inside (check outย the stained glass windows), and our waitress was very friendly (sheย attempted to serve Jackson his dad’s Guinness). ๐Ÿ™‚

This evening we had a literary pub crawl tour with our students.ย Basically, you walk from pub to pub, as well as places like Trinityย College and St. Andrew’s Church, to hear tales of famous authorsย (e.g., Samuel Beckett, James Joyce, Oscar Wilde) who frequented theย area. The two guides are actors and go in and out of character. It wasย entertaining and informative, but we gave the kids a pass and I’m sureย glad we did as they would have found it incredibly boring (especiallyย with the 20-minute stops for people to get their pints). I ducked outย with my folks a bit early to get everyone settled into bed as we haveย a 4:30am bus to catch to the airport for our flight to Edinburgh.ย (Also the reason why this post is short!). More from Scotland…

Tuesday at Trinity

Today we stuck close to our Trinity College “home” after a weekend ofย traveling around the Irish country- and seaside. We slept well andย took the morning fairly easy. I stocked up on some provisions at theย little shop on campus, and then I did three loads of laundryย simultaneously at the launderette (for โ‚ฌ15 or about $20!). Mom and dadย kept me company, and Reed showed up to help tote the clean piles ofย clothes back to our apartment. Small, yet large, blessings indeed.

Then we ventured out to Temple Bar for lunch, returning to The Quayย (say “key”). This is where we ate our first meal in Dublin. We againย were quite pleased with our food, the atmosphere, and the cheerfulย staff. Abbie had bangers and mash and Jackson had cottage pie, so theyย are becoming good Irish kids. I enjoyed my mushy peas with my fish andย chips, so I’m right there with them. Reed had (another) burger. ๐Ÿ™‚ Myย folks shared salmon, and dad tried a “Guinness Black.” This is whereย black currant syrup is added to the Guinness, resulting in a sweeterย pint. He liked it better than normal Guinness, but I just don’t thinkย it’s his drink. He will likely stick to Coke from here on out.ย [Sidebar… I neglected to mention yesterday that our bus driver toldย me how Guinness is very good for pregnant women due to the iron. Theย saying “Guinness is good for you” is wholeheartedly endorsed overย here!]

Back to our day… When we returned to campus, we went to the Oldย Library to go (wait in line to) see the Book of Kells. This isย Ireland’s most treasured possession, so it is a true must-see (evenย though we had seen it before). It is a beautifully decorated,ย illuminated Biblical manuscript dating from around AD 800. After youย read about the book, how it was made (it took 185 calves to make theย vellum pages!), and see some other ancient manuscripts, you go into aย dimly lit room and there it is, in a big glass case under soft lights.ย There are four volumes but only two are on display at any one time. Weย saw an open page in the gospels of John and Luke. It truly isย beautiful (no photos allowed).

But, it gets even better, in my opinion. Next you ascend some stairsย to enter the Long Room, which is the amazing old library. It looksย like something straight from Hogwarts (sorry for yet another Harryย Potter reference; they will likely keep coming). There are two levelsย of tall, wooden bookshelves, and the rows are lined with statues atย each end. A bonus this time was an exhibit of Brian Boru, the Irishย king who battled the Vikings and died in the battle of Clontarff inย 1014. The artwork in this exhibit is magnificent (see/read more here). I was lookingย forward to seeing it as I had read a bit about this part of Irishย history (thanks, Faye!), and I marveled at both the art and the story.

We walked around campus a bit after we left the Old Library, and thenย we wandered back to our apartment for awhile. I took my folks out forย a little shopping (we had to replenish our Irish shortbread cookieย supply), and we FaceTimed with my sister and nephew so mom and dadย could get caught up on the happenings in Iowa. Reed left to meet upย with the students for class at “their pub” out in the suburb ofย Clondalkin where their home stays are. I cooked some scrambled eggs inย an aluminum takeout pan (we have no cookware) and made some toast forย the rest of us for dinner. Pretty gourmet (not). We have tomorrow inย Dublin before heading to Edinburgh early Thursday morning, so we willย see what the day holds!

New heights in Eireann

photo-321Today we had a “phenomenal tour,” as Sean Finnegan would say. He, and our bus driver Frank, did a fine job motoring us over the Irish countryside. We set out for the Cliffs of Moher, spectacular 700 foot high walls above the Atlantic. This was not scheduled on our tour as it is weather dependent. Although the skies were a bit gray, the visibility was good enough to take in excellent views, as the photos clearly show. We hiked up like “real Irish people” rather than going on the sidewalk from the parking lot. We were on more of a cow path, complete with nice Irish cows.

The views once we arrived to the top were spectacular and made me feel very small. We did not lay on our bellies and look over, though some around us did. Sean clearly warned us about the danger of doing so. We also saw a huge sea cave that was in Harry Potter 7, Part 1. The cliffs themselves were also featured in The Princess Bride (“The Cliffs of Insanity”). Pretty cool.

We ventured on for a lunch stop next to the Bunratty Castle. (We saw LOTS of castles today, many of which looked a bit “broken down,” as our nieces stated.) It was a nice stop with good food (all of which is very excellent here, though a bit heavy…lots of potatoes, which we learned today are mostly imported from Cypress and Spain as the farm ground here is too valuable to waste on potatoes!).

IMG_0064
Dungeon w/ prisoner @ Blarney Castle

We departed for County Cork, specifically the Blarney Castle. Reed and I visited three years ago, so we knew what to expect. You climbย many, many stairs up a narrow, winding stone staircase to the top of this mid-15th century castle. Then you wait in line to lay on your back, grab two iron bars, lean your head back, and kiss the stone in the wall. The Irish believe this process gives one the gift of gab or eloquence. We all kissed it so we will see what happens! (Abbie already has the gift, so she said perhaps it will work in reverse for her!)

We separated from our California group as they were staying in Cork for the night. We headed back to Dublin on the 7:20 train from Cork via Mallow and Limerick. Then we went by bus to Trinity….it was good to be “home,” which is also my folks’ home for the next few days until we head to Scotland. Our students are a bit weary and may be taking the day off from their placements tomorrow, which I approved of. It was a very busy weekend…we saw a lot of this small, green island, and feel much better acquainted with her (called Eireann in Gaelic, my namesake).